Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Trim/tilt intermittently doesn't work

The boat spends the summer on the dock, and I can raise it up and use the red stopper on the side when it comes home in the fall if I haven't replaced the trim/tilt by then. I have a 5hp motor that rests on a moveable pin to change the angle. Does this 30hp motor work the same way with the trim/tilt removed? Do I need to buy one?
 
The screw valve on the side of the pump is supposed to let you move the motor if the tilt pump won't work. I've never had a boat with power tilt till I got this one and got by ok but I think this will be easier than you are afraid it will be.
 
I tried backing out the screw valve on the side of the pump, but it's super stuck. I was not able to back it out without chewing up the plastic with my screwdriver so I screwed it back in and decided to leave it until the boat comes out.
 
I've already gotten the new valve, but I'm expecting a fight to get the old one out, so I was hoping to do it on dry land rather than fight it bouncing around at the dock.

Are you saying that if I drain the unit of hydraulic fluid I'll be able to move it freely even if the valve is still in place? That sounds like a good option to me.
 
I'm seeing some pretty high prices for OEM replacement trim/tilt motors. $430 for Mercury/Quicksilver, $265 for Sierra, $340 for ARCO. I did an eBay search and found a trim/tilt motor matching the 827675A1 part number for $60. The seller has a good rating, but does anyone have any experience getting aftermarket trim/tilt motors? I could buy 4 of these before getting the Sierra motor. That makes me nervous, but the price is tempting. Is it too good to be true?
 
Diagnosis confirmed! One little tap on the trim/tilt motor and it came to life. Thanks for all your help Swagonmaster.
 
Don't know what the policy is on continuing old threads, but since I'm just getting to work on something months later I figured it didn't make sense to start a new thread. When I opened up the trim/tilt motor expecting to replace the brushes I found that the brushes looked great, but one of the brush springs was worn out. They look like Leeson 9000007.01 brush springs, but are smaller. The measurements I took were from the brush spring that was working well.
Brush Spring.jpgBrush Spring Spec.jpg
The images I uploaded are for the Leeson spring mentioned above, but the overall width is 0.5" instead of 0.905", the coil diameter is 0.13" instead of 0.275", and the gap between coils is 0.25" instead of 0.375".

Can someone help me identify the correct replacement brush springs? Here is an image of the brush springs I took out, showing the worn out one relative to the working one.
Worn Spring.jpg
 
Swarlos said:
Don't know what the policy is on continuing old threads, but since I'm just getting to work on something months later I figured it didn't make sense to start a new thread. When I opened up the trim/tilt motor expecting to replace the brushes I found that the brushes looked great, but one of the brush springs was worn out. They look like Leeson 9000007.01 brush springs, but are smaller. The measurements I took were from the brush spring that was working well.
View attachment 26727View attachment 26728
The images I uploaded are for the Leeson spring mentioned above, but the overall width is 0.5" instead of 0.905", the coil diameter is 0.13" instead of 0.275", and the gap between coils is 0.25" instead of 0.375".

Can someone help me identify the correct replacement brush springs? Here is an image of the brush springs I took out, showing the worn out one relative to the working one.
View attachment 26733
Click to expand...
I googled tilt/trim repair and found Five Star Marine in Port Richey, FL that rebuilds the pumps and seems to sell some parts, you might check with them or another rebuilder to see if they can come up with something.
 
Swagonmaster said:
12 volts won't zap you, not enough voltage or amperage (don't try that with the ignition wires though, they have enough voltage to light up your life!). Find your power wires while it's as convenient as possible, dock or whatever, and use an inexpensive test light to see if voltage is available when the issue occurs. It helps if you have already checked things when it works so you know which wires should be hot. Check both the wire end and the connector it's plugged on to separately as that could be where the juice stops flowing. As noted above, said poor connection could just as easily be in or at a relay so pay attention to what you have and where it should be.
Click to expand...

Yeah it will. I was waiting in line to launch at a ramp in Gulfport, MS. (salt water) and a guy didn't prepare his equipment for the outing. His battery was apparently dead, or engine was in a condition where it wouldn't start, and he went to his truck to use that battery.

He walked out in knee deep water, to the transom area (engine lower unit and midsection were in the water) and apparently connected the battery ground first, not last as recommended for other reasons. He got the neg. on and then grabbed the pos. and in an attempt to attach it...apparently he had the lead clamp part in his hand, got zapped and jerked his hand back, not once but he tried several attempts....you'd think after once, he'd get something insulated to do the job or get out of the water......course anybody going boating that hasn't prepared their equipment is missing a few screws here and there anyway.
 
Actually Texasmark I stand corrected, under the right conditions 12 volts can hurt. I've never seen it happen but salt water is a different beast to work around.
Best advice is don't stand in the water and work with electricty and keep your batteries charged.
 
Swarlos said:
View attachment 24098
Here is a picture of the diagram. Red (positive to relays) and black (negative to relays) have connectivity regardless of switching. Green/White has connectivity when pushing down switch, Light Blue/White has connectivity when pushing up switch. Neither Green nor Blue have connectivity when switching up or down.

There are only two wires that go to the tilt motor, green and blue. One acts as positive and the other as ground depending on how the relays are switched. I don't think connecting them together is the answer, but I could jumper positive directly to either one to see if the motor works.

The wires have plastic couplers before connecting in to the relays. Are those couplers removable/reusable or do I have to cut them to disconnect the wires?
Click to expand...
Can u please send me a clear photo
 
Back
Top