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Volvo AQ130 Fuel Pump

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rrswede

New member
Read a post from 2013 with this title but the person posting did not remain on the topic so I am submitting a new post.

I have an AQ130 in my fishing boat that has run fine for a very long time (since 1974). It has the original fuel pump. At the end of 2015, I noticed that the manual priming lever did not appear to transfer fuel. I was, however, able to start the engine. However, in gear, accelerating hard, it bogged down but recovered when the throttle was pulled back. I pretty much idled back to the ramp and pulled the boat for the winter. Today, I removed the outgoing line from the fuel pump and was not able to transfer fuel with the manual priming lever. I then cranked the engine and was able to get some fuel transfer, but was expecting a pretty good stream. I did not get that. Should I have? I then disconnected the incoming line from the pump and, using a hand bulb, verified that there was no constriction in the fuel supply line. Could a bad diaphram or check valve be the culprit?

In the 2013 post, there were essentially two suggestions made, #1, replace the fuel pump with an electric pump and #2, rebuild the pump. Can you provide me with sources for a proper conversion to electric (supplier and model) and the same for a rebuild kit. I am certainly capable of rebuilding the pump but I can't seem to find a supplier.

Thank you for your consideration

swede
 
Thank you very much for the rapid response. Wow, I'm not sure I'm glad to have found at least one source for the diaphragm kit. Have you ever disassembled a pump like this? Anything special to be careful with? I have already scribed the upper and lower halves in case I did take it apart. Do you know what happens when the check valve is bad? I don't know the first thing about fuel pump failures other than the fact that the result is lack of or no fuel transfer.

Thank you again. Hope to hear from others for comments but will definitely respond to the forum regarding my actions and the result.

swede
 
Did you check the strainer? If the motor runs at slow speed it may be just a restriction not allowing the pump to keep up with the demand.
 
Thanks again. Yes, have just pulled the strainer. I've never pulled it before and was amazed how clean it was. Nothing to remove, at all.

swede
 
No trying to show the parts diagram. Just take the pump apart not much to it maybe you can clean the check valves it dont show them in the diagram. Can you smell fuel on the dipstick?
 
No fuel smell on the dipstick. Plan to wait till tomorrow to open the pump up. Want to see what local repair shops have to say about replacement parts.

Thanks, swede
 
Enclosed are 3 shots of the partially disassembled fuel pump showing the diaphragm still attached.
1) Although the diaphragm is not ripped or have any visible holes, it is cupped a fat 1/16" in the dark area. Is that sufficient to cause a fuel transfer problem?
2) The check valve (only see 1) does not seat perfectly but not much air passes through. I have not found a rebuild kit that includes a check valve and if that was the only issue, I suppose having a slow return from the carbs would not be a killer. Am I correct that there is only one check valve and are there other issues associated with a leaking check valve that I should be made aware of?
4) I have not figured out how to free the diaphragm from the body. Can someone offer instructions?

Dia 2.jpgDia 1.jpgDia 4.jpg


Thank you, swede
 
Since the last post, I did some reading there are two check valves. One ok, second has slight leak. Also did a little light prying to get the manual primer lever loose from the body and got the diaphragm assembly out. Don't believe I will spend $150 to purchase a diaphragm kit until I learn exactly what will be necessary to convert to electronic. In the 2013 post, it was suggested that the member purchase a Carter P4389 Electronic pump plus an oil pressure switch and a means to power the pump until the oil pressure was high enough to activate the pressure switch. Does anyone know of a complete parts list to accomplish the conversion and a wiring diagram to properly hook up the components?

Thanks, swede
 
Thanks for the response.

This link http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P4389/10002/-1 shows the Carter pump suggested in the 2013 post. This link http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8251?seid=srese1&gclid=CIfe7cydjssCFQUFaQodiZIC0g is for a different one. Substantial difference in cost but don't they do the same thing?

Separately, this link http://autoplicity.com/3505277-airt...safety-switc?gclid=CPWv486cjssCFQIKaQodJmwHAg is of a different pressure switch. Again, a difference in cost but is there a difference in function?

As for the actual hookup, I understand what you have written but probably will be back here for assurance when I actually make the conversion.

swede
 
As a follow up to my 2/23 post, I contacted Fairview Marine located in Wood Village, Oregon, and spoke with Brad. Reference to this firm had been made previously on this website by RicardoMarine. My initial purpose was to see if Brad knew how I might connect with Rick. In the process, Brad suggested I swing by his shop since he had about half a dozen used pumps, any one of which could be purchased at a reasonable price. More out of curiosity than anything, I stopped by with my old pump in hand, sorted through the used pumps and selected one for purchase. Brad compared the action of his pump to mine, which I had carefully cleaned and reassembled, and indicated that, in his opinion, it should function, probably as well as his. I did make the purchase, which was very reasonable, and went home with two pumps. I retested my old pump and found it now operated and so did the new/used one. Yesterday, the boat, with the old pump, was on the river and ran great. I don't know what I did to correct the problem with the old pump and don't know how long it will hold up, but for now, I'm very satisfied and would highly recommend Fairview Marine and Brad as a "go to" source for used parts.

Thanks again to Kim for responding and keeping me going

swede
 
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