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bmdakk

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checked compression. 150 top cylinder and 128 on bottom? Is it close enough to run it or should I get it rebuilt? What do i do? 86 e50belcde
 
Most guys go by the 10% rule.. no one cylinder should be off by more than 10 % of the highest reading. So, your bottom cyl should be at least 135 psi. BUT, have you run it? How's it run? If it's ok, I'd just drive it But that's my opinion only.
 
I have done a spark test it jumps 3/8 but is not very strong, kinda yellow, not blue. I rebuilt the carbs and cleaned them. set the floats parrallel with the housing, blew threw the inlet and it shuts the air off. but when I put it on the motor and pump the ball, it pours gas out of the mouth of the carb. having trouble figuring out how to sync everything. I have a manual, but im not very mechanically inclinded. its on an 86 evinrude. Im thinking of swamping it and buying a newer one. There are not alot of mechanics that work on boats around here. and the local Marina charges $120 hour to just diagnose it. I fear the repair bill would be more than a new one.
 
Carburetor flooding = Float set wrong or/and float needle valve requires replacing.

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1

If compression is accurate... remove cylinder head so that you can inspect the head gasket, sealing surfaces of the head and block, top of piston and the cylinder wall.

Things you can do yourself (above)... no need to be forking out a small fortune.
 
Thanks Joe, I set the floats on the carbs that way but some how it is still allowing the fuel to pour out of the mouth . I replaced all the fuel lines. Im at a loss as to why the fuel is coming out. Im gonna take them back off and make sure eveything is tight. Re punch the silver disks and go thru them again.. As far as the cylinder head goes. Do these motors have a timing chain? I feel I can get the head off if I dont have to mess with a chain. Ive rebuilt Honda 4wheelers from cylinder up but the chain is below the cylinder and not through the head or jug. Im not real good at timing things. Thanks.
 
Carb flooding....... If the float is set properly, either the float needle valve tip is not seating properly (worn) or the air vent from the float chamber to the outside atmosphere is clogged.
 
Ok when looking into rebuilding the carbs I found my carb on a youtube video. there was a silver plug on the top and one on the side, and one on the bottom inside the bowl. When I took mine apart there was one on top and a screen on the side and an open hole on the bottom . in the video these were all closed with the silver plugs. The kit came with new plugs for each hole, so I installed the plugs except for where the screen was.

Fast forward to the install back onto the motor. when I got them both back on the motor and everything tight( except for the silencer cover) I hooked up the primer bulb and pumped it. Fuel began running out of the hole on the side with the screen and the mouth of the carb.. Thinking it should be covered i took them off and installed the plugs where the screens were. Now it just comes out of the mouth. The needle and seat were brand new and seal when i blow air thru them while operating the float manually.
 
What is this motor anyways.. an 86 Evinrude doesn't really tell us a lot. How about a model number, or at least a horsepower.
 
You do know that the carb kits you bought are for a number of different carbs? Anywhere from your 86 up to and including 2005 models, and horsepowers from 20 to 70. So just because the kits came with extra plugs, doesn't mean you should use them. If your carbs only had one on them, I'd run it with only one. For the fuel to come out of the carb, the float needle isn't sealing or seating. Pull 'em off again, take off the extra plugs, and re-check the needle and seats. This may sound dumb, but make sure you have the floats the right way up. I've put carbs together with the floats upside down.
 
i KNEW THEY WERE FOR DIFFERENT YEARS AND hp, JUST THOUGHT MAYBE SOMEONE HAD BEEN INTHERE BEFORE AND FORGOT TO REPLACE THEM. iLL TRY IT
 
As mentioned previously, a flooding carburetor is caused by one (or more) of three things.........

1 - The float level is not proper.
2 - The float needle valve is faulty.
3 - the hole in the bottom portion of the upper body that leads to a passageway from the float chamber to the outside is clogged/plugged/stopped up with something. Look for a small hole on the outside of the upper body that leads to the float chamber area.

This passageway can sometimes be difficult to find BUT if the float and its needle valve are proper, it is the only thing left that would cause the craburetor to flood.

No need to keep installing the carburetor on the engine to test for flooding.... just run a fuel hose to it from the tank, hold the carb horizontal and fill it with fuel until the fuel primer biulb is hard.
 
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