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What size prop should i have?

Greg001

New member
Hi All,
It's been a while but can someone tell me what size and pitch prop i should have on my 1983 -84 ..200hp Mariner? I need better fuel economy. The boat is about a 1970-1980 Haines Hunter.
I have been told it is and ex race engine but i only use it on my fishing boat. I can't say whats on it now as there are no markings at all but it is stainless. At 4500rpm i am doing 36 knots @ 4200--32 knots etc.

Thanks in advance
Greg
 
There are several steps that must be taken.-------Have the motor checked with a dynamometer to determine the horse power output of the motor.-------------What is the maximum RPM you can get now ?--------A prop shop would have " pitch blocks " to determine what pitch you have now.
 
ok thx don't have anyone where i am with a dynamometer, as for max RPM's call me a sook but i haven't been game enough..lol.
I was after the standaard prop size out of the factory so i can try that.
Cheers,
Greg
 
The prop attaches to the motor , but fits the boat / application.----Maximum RPM is needed for a given pitch to determine which prop is better.----------Many motors are ruined because of the wrong prop for the application.
 
ok I understand that but here is another probably dumb question , but here goes ....do all Mariners come out with a powerband like motorbikes have? Just curios cause i've never had it on another outboard until this one?
Greg
 
The powerband on two stroke motors is similar regardless of what they look like, outboard, bike, lawnmower etc.

At lower rpms the torque is high compared with the horsepower. As the horsepower increases the torque backs off (relative to the horsepower).

On the 200 Mariner (which is mechanically a 200 Mercury with different paint/decals) the Wide Open Throttle (WOT) range is between 5000 and 5800 rpms. Perfectly tuned, at sea level, with a air temp in the 70 degree range and a relative humidity of 30% it will develop it's full 200 horses at 5400 rpm.

Exceeding 5400 rpms (so say moving up to 5800, even though it's in it's "range") will actually cause a reduction in horsepower of upto 5 to 10%.

When "propping" a particular motor on a particular rig you need to shoot for the mid point of the WOT range - or about 5400 rpms in this particular case.

In order to correctly prop you must first load your boat as you would "normally" use it. Weight is a huge factor in prop selection. "Bob" may have the exact same boat with the exact same motor but his required pitch could be 2 to 4" different than yours.

Additionally, one prop is "NOT" sufficient for the entire season. As humidity and air temperature increases your motor has to work harder. It is not uncommon for a motor that routinely produces 200 horses on a cool spring day to barely be able to achieve 160 horses at mid summer temps. Because of that the prop that would allow you to achieve 5400 rpms in early May is "way too much prop" for the end of July, only allowing the motor to top out at say 4800 rpms, somewhat below it's WOT range.

Even if you don't intend to "run that fast", the motor must at least be capable of reaching it's lower WOT number or it will load up, carbon up, run like crap and could end up becoming damaged.

So, ideally, you should run a minimum of two props. One for cooler weather/lighter running and one for the "dog days" or running heavy.

If that is impractical (for any number of reasons), your prop should be fitted so that it just barely gets you into the WOT range at peak summer (say 5100 rpms max) which should allow you to stay in the upper rpm range (5800'ish) in the spring/fall.

You prop a boat to allow the motor to run properly, any benefit in "gas mileage" is incidental - you shouldn't mess with prop selection to try and increase gas mileage if it allowing the motor to run as designed.

Better gas mileage can be achieved through numerous other factors (but I am talking about small numbers here - anything that promises 10% better gas mileage is better used to top off the pile behind the "horses barn", for that's where it belongs).

Installing trim tabs can improve your gas mileage a couple percent. Likewise, mounting the motor on a jackplate - and you don't have to go extreme, an adjustable with 4 or 6" of setback will allow you to fine tune the motor's mounting height which will allow you to squeeze out an extra 1/2 gallon per hour on this size motor. Keeping the bottom clean and keeping the weight properly distributed will likewise improve fuel economy.

But at the end of the day this is still a 200 horse motor. Running it wide open will result in burning 20 gallons per hour. Running at it's "cruise speed" which is about 3/4 throttle (3600'ish rpms) will still cause it to burn 13 - 14 gallons per hour (not cheap to run), but over a season, if you use it alot, squeezing out an extra 1/2 to 1 gph can add up to alot of money.

So do prop it according to the rpms - shoot for 5400'ish, and then stay easy on the throttle if you want to save gas...
 
Thanks very much Graham, that's what i needed because at the moment with the boat loaded for a 2 day trip with wieght distribution good I am doing 32knots at 4200 rpm (way below it's wot ) and remember I am talking about out on the open ocean.
If the weather comes up a bit I have back down to about 3500 rpm and I'm still doing 23 knots. For me to get the rpm's up around the 5400 rpm's it's way too fast ( dangerous ).
Therefore I'm think i need to go to a smaller prop to get the revs up and still retain a good speed.
Am I correct?
Greg
 
i am interested in Grahams answer to this so am making entry to flag this thread so i can track it easier...
 
You have it partly correct.

If you are saying that you can make 5400'ish rpms (and not much more) then you HAVE the correct prop. If that is the case then you simply have to stay "easy" on the throttle. There is absolutely nothing wrong with running at 3500 rpms "all day long" if that gives you sufficient speed. In fact, it would save you a considerable amount of gas as opposed to running at full (or near full) throttle.

But, the prop pitch must "allow" the motor to make it's WOT range even if you never intend to run it there.

If you swapped out to a (smaller) prop (less pitch, less diameter or less of both) then for a given rpm you would move slower. However, that could be dangerous, because if you did go heavy on the throttle, the smaller prop would allow the motor to exceed it's maximum rpms which could ultimately result in engine damage (often referred to as "runaway prop").

If you swapped for a (larger) prop (more pitch, more diameter or both) then again, you would tend to go slower (at the top end), but only because you are "bogging" out the engine (think of like a VW Bug trying to pull a 53' trailer up a hill - it might make it at a crawl speed but you certainly would do damage to the bug if you continued to operate it that way).

So the bottom line is - your prop MUST allow you to reach your WOT range even if you don't need to run in that range - keeping the throttle backed off is ok (it does cause some carbon to build up but a fresh set of plugs every season and a bit of Seafoam in the gas alleviates the negative effects - which are still way safer/easier on the motor than overloading it or allowing it to run away).

There is a point called "cruise speed" which I mentioned earlier. That "spot" is slightly different on each engine. It's the point where the motor reaches maximum timing advance but you still have a good bit of throttle left (normally in the 2/3 to 3/4 throttle range, somewhere in the mid 3000's on the tach for most 2 stroke outboards).

Running at that point will keep the motor running clean, get you your best gas mileage etc. When you are "backing down" to 3500 rpms/23 knots I would assume that you are pretty close to that sweet spot (unless your prop is incorrect at this point).

If as you note, opening her up to 5400 rpms would result in "dangerous" handling, the solution is most likely not in the prop, but instead you have "too much engine". The soulution for that is a "re-power" or a light throttle hand...
 
Ok Thanks again Graham, I think I've got it now.
I am going Fishing on Boxing day so if the weather permits I'll open her wide open and see what her max revs are, I haven't had it wide open up till now. I'm only going 38 nautical miles offshore this time so I'll change my driving habits and slow down a bit to see if that makes any noticible difference in my fuel usage.
I'll let you know what happens.
Merry Christmas to all
Greg
 
excellent explanation Graham....assuming he is not overpowered there is another reason for having the proper prop and running 3400 or so in rough water...there are times when you need that xtra power in rough water....not for an extended period but to handle the water and/or wind at that moment...he would not have that if he is already turning max with the wrong prop..his original quest for better gas performance per miles covered is covered in your writeup also but if he is running 200hp then exxon will continue to love him...as they love all of us...
 
LOL yes the fuel companies do love me $330 AU plus oil to fill up every trip. But yeah i am now wondering because the other day coming back in it blew up from the NE and I had some BIG waves ( probably about 2.5 metres ) chasing me through the channel and I had to use a lot of throttle to keep in front of them sometimes going over the top to catch the next one ( wasn't watching the tacho ).
In that cenario who cares about fuel.
I'll know max rpm wednesday. Ohh boy now I'm even more confused do i change props or not. With the wealth of knowledge you guys have given me I'll have a play Wednesday and make a decision after that.
Greg
 
I am hoping for some advise. I have just destroyed my prop. I am lucky that that was the worst damage. how's this. My son and I went fishing off the Sw corner of australia. coming back to the boat ramp i thought as there was some chop on the ramp I would drive on to the trailer and get settled before the next swell. I had a couple attempts at lining up the boat and trailer but there was a LOT of sideways movement. I thought I was ok and gave some throttle. as I hit the trailer the wave sucked back so I hit a dry trailer. the sudden stop threw me forward with my hand on the control. That floored the boat which took off under me and I fell back. The boat was at an angle to the trailer so it missed the winch pole stop and drove a few feet on to the tray bed of the truck. I got to the throttle and killed it and the boat slid sideways off the trailer, almost overturning with me in it. instead it landed sideways and then on to its own bottom. I backed it away from the rocks that form the boat ramp and tied to the jetty. we then retreived it in the conventional manner.
Not much damage. a bit of skin off me, the hull has very very little scratching, but the prop hit the trailer and I need a new prop.
This is my question what prop for a mercury 4st 60 hp big foot that pushes a heavy plate aluminium 17 ft centre console.

the old prop had these numbers remaining. I was reasonable pleased with the prop, but never took it to max revs. I chickened out at about 4600 when the boat , a cathedral hull (built as a jet boat) threatened TO BECOME AIRBORNE.
the numbers as I can read them 4877342 a 401 15 F
What prop do I need
 
... and revs maxed out at 4900 with the 19 inch prop...
Before changing props make sure that all cylinders are running properly. If all is good it appears you could drop the pitch to a 15 or 16 to bring the RPM up to 5500. That's 200 RPM for each number of pitch change. Start w/a a 17 pitch to see what happens...borrow one from a prop shop and then buy from them.
 
Hi guyjg, thanks for that, Iwas thinking that ha 17 might work. Another thing i noticed was a considerable drop in speed and economy using unleaded compared to premium unleaded. Has anyone else noticed this?
 
Stick w/branded fuels from suppliers that sell in large volume like Shell. Low sales volume marinas can have old fuel in their tanks especially at the beginning of the boating season. I use Shell 93 octane unleaded and get great performance from it. Some unbranded fuels just don't have the BTUs necessary for maximum performance. Other brands I use are Sunoco, Mobil and Amoco. I will use BP gas if needed in a pinch but place it last on my list. I read an independent report a few years ago that studied the volatility and valve deposits of a group of fuel suppliers. BP was at the bottom of the best fuels list because of accumulated valve deposits. Many of the quickie mart gas station fuels lacked the additives of the major suppliers that improve engine performance which allowed them to sell at a lower price. JMHO
 
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