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Evinrude 60 HP (3 Cylinder) Won't Suck Fuel

L

lbga

New member
Hi there,

I'm a first time boat owner. We boat a 24 ft pontoon with a Evinrude 60 HP motor on it. Things have been good until about the 8th or 10th time we took the boat out and then the motor starting acting up and started not wanting to start up or stay running properly. After investigating the issue it appears that the motor is not sucking up the fuel like it's suppose to. I have no idea what causes this or how to fix it as I know absolutely nothing about motors.

I have done a little maintenance though to try to fix it.. Here's what I have done:
- Replaced fuel line and bulb from gas tank to motor. It has special quick connectors on the end. The quick connectors were NOT replaced, just the rubber hoses.
- I also installed an inline fuel filter on that new fuel line.
- I replaced the 3 spark plugs.

I noticed that when priming the motor with the bulb that it does pump fuel into the fuel filter and into the carbs, however the bulb is really hard to squeeze like there is some sort of restriction or blockage of some sort. I have taken apart the fuel lines I could get to and they appear to be clear with no blockage. I have also taken apart the top part of the fuel tank that has the fuel gauge, float and the sucker hose. All of that appeared to be clear and no obstructions.

I haven't the slightest clue about what could be going on here and I would appreciation any sort of help that anyone could offer on this matter.

I hope it's nothing major. I can't really afford to get a marine mechanic to come over and do diagnostics on it.

Thank you for your help in advance!

All the best,
Larry
 
Model # of the motor ?----Running with tested VRO automatic mixing or mixing 50:1 in your fuel tank.----Did you replace the impeller ?
 
racerone said:
Model # of the motor ?----Running with tested VRO automatic mixing or mixing 50:1 in your fuel tank.----Did you replace the impeller ?
Click to expand...
Model is.. E60TLCUC
Serial # R 1426654

I'm not sure what VRO automatic mixing is? I manually mix 50:1 ratio oil / gas.

Impeller... I haven't replaced that. I'm not sure what it even is.
 
It is a good policy to install a new water pump impeller when you buy a used boat / motor.----Post the actual values of a compression test of the cylinders.
 
racerone said:
It is a good policy to install a new water pump impeller when you buy a used boat / motor.----Post the actual values of a compression test of the cylinders.
Click to expand...
How do I test the compression? I don't have any test tools. The water pumps through the engine just fine. It's the fuel that is not pumping into the engine.

If you pump the bulb it feeds into the motor manually pumping it but as soon as the fuel line has been used up, it dies and is not drawing anymore fuel into the motor.
 
The electric primer is a valve.-----It opens when you push the key in.----When the motor is cranking you push the key in and hold it in for cold starting.-----The electric primer valve does nothing when motor is running.
 
So how does the pulsing / pulling of the fuel happen then? That's what the problem is. The motor isn't sucking the fuel from the tank like it should be.

Do you not know what the issue is?

Thanks!
 
Plugged vent in fuel tank, loosen the cap and see if it starts to draw fuel. Air must replace the fuel as it drops in the tank or the engine will starve for fuel and quit. Does this boat have a separate fuel filter between the fuel tank and the engine? that can also do it if the filter is plugged or full of water.
 
The tank should vent automatically when the hose is connected but certainly can be plugged so loosening cap is a good test. But if it starves in just the time it takes to run the carbs dry then I'd guess fuel pump failure.
 
fitz73222 said:
Plugged vent in fuel tank, loosen the cap and see if it starts to draw fuel. Air must replace the fuel as it drops in the tank or the engine will starve for fuel and quit. Does this boat have a separate fuel filter between the fuel tank and the engine? that can also do it if the filter is plugged or full of water.
Click to expand...
I have tried that to no avail. It never had a fuel filter on it, but I added one inline on the main line. The fuel is not moving through the hose when the engine is running. It uses what's in the hose and then quits.
 
Droid said:
The tank should vent automatically when the hose is connected but certainly can be plugged so loosening cap is a good test. But if it starves in just the time it takes to run the carbs dry then I'd guess fuel pump failure.
Click to expand...
See above.. ^^
 
I don't know the age of the motor but would say the fuel pump is the problem.
When the motor is running, try squeezing the bulb and see if that helps.
Wih older 3 cylinders, I have had problems with the check valves in the hose bulb (even on a new one) and also had to replace the fuel pump.
On the older models there is also a coarse screen in the fuel pump cover.
An extra long fuel line can also make it more difficult.

Fuel can also be an issue. Use at least 89 grade. I prefer 91 ethanol free, but it does have more additives in it which can be detrimental.

On any used motor, do the basic service procedures - tune up, new spark plugs, water pump inspect/replace and replace ,gearcase oil (check for water or debris).

My 2 cents.

Allan
 
The fuel pump operates with PRESSURE pulses from the crankcase.---There may be issues there.-----If you do not have certain tools , then get them or have a mobile mechanic ( $$$$ ) come out and do a compression test for you.-----Sounds like something suddenly failed on your motor.----But no one here can see / touch or hear your motor.----Trouble shooting must be done by you.----Questions must be answered.
 
A problem in the anti-siphon valve can cause fuel delivery issues Also a grey fuel line that has liner problems, best to try on a portable tank.
 
FooLingToo said:
I don't know the age of the motor but would say the fuel pump is the problem.
When the motor is running, try squeezing the bulb and see if that helps.
Wih older 3 cylinders, I have had problems with the check valves in the hose bulb (even on a new one) and also had to replace the fuel pump.
On the older models there is also a coarse screen in the fuel pump cover.
An extra long fuel line can also make it more difficult.

Fuel can also be an issue. Use at least 89 grade. I prefer 91 ethanol free, but it does have more additives in it which can be detrimental.

On any used motor, do the basic service procedures - tune up, new spark plugs, water pump inspect/replace and replace ,gearcase oil (check for water or debris).

My 2 cents.

Allan
Click to expand...
I just bought a new fuel pump but it didn't have the right hose connections so I had to take a part the old fuel pump and use some of the parts on the new one, the back part with the host connectors on it. I think I'm going to send this back and get the correct one. Maybe it's that back plate that is still the issue.

@fatzbullet I just replaced the fuel line from the tank to the motor and installed an inline fuel filter on it between the bulb and the motor. I can tell that the fuel is not flowing by itself. The fuel line and filter empties and nothing else is being primed. The boat does have a 12 gal portable fuel tank. I will try to get a replacement anti-siphon valve and see if I can replace that. It may just be something THAT simple. I haven't replaced that yet.
 
I would like to add that the motor appears to be leaking fuel / oil from somewhere at the top of the engine and it's running down the shaft on the outside of the motor and dripping off the bottom. I guess this would indicate a bad seal somewhere, right? Any clue where I may find this seal? I have visually looked it over, but I can't tell where it's actually coming from.
 
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