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1956 Evinrude 30HP sputters but won't run.

Agree with Joe. What was done to the float needle valve and what is the tip on the needle? Black or red. Was the seat replaced. How about the float. Your problem lies right here.
 
I'll have to check the needle valve. I know I replaced it when I did the carb. What is the difference between black and red tips?

Thanks for the help. -Glen
 
Okay, did you change the valve seat? Here is a little info on the needle tips. Green: HSN/HNBR, Viton. Black: Nitrile (Buna-N, NBR), Viton (FKM), EPDM, Neoprene (Chloroprene), HNBR
Brown: Viton (FKM)......what does this mean? The green is a hydrogenated nitrile often used in a/c applications with exposure to 134a. Most black is a neoprene and not advised for oxygenated fuels or extremes in temperatures. Red or brown is usually the best for what we're doing here. Pioneered by Dupont, this elastomer is in many specific types, so I'm not sure what they might use on the needle valves in various kits. I can tell you, however, most types are very good from about -30c to +220c and even to +300c for short periods. Besides that, I think modern kits use type B or F, which can resist quite effectively, the acidic, oxidising, unstable fuels shoved down our throats today.....like biodiesel and ethanol. However, I never want anyone to use ethanol in marine applications, in particular outboards older than year 2000. Besides that, ethanol blend fuels have an extremely short shelf life, soon phase separating and taking the octane away from the solution, concentrating it where it can no longer be introduced into the motor.
So to avoid taking chances, I always recommend non oxy fuel. If the retailer's pump doesn't have a "dedicated" hose for the "good stuff".....and the last purchase was not non-oxygenated fuel, then I recommend running the first gallon into your car or truck.
 
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My first thoughts were a flooding carb,most probably the float cut off pin sticking.or maybe the tiny spring clip on the float not on correctly.
 
Well I finally got back to this pulled the carb and made sure it all looked good. I still have the same problem and found the gas must be leaking through the low speed area because when I close the adjustment the fuel stops leaking. I have another carburetor I can try but ideas on why this may be happening would be great.

I also wanted to ask the experts about running these old motors with the lower unit removed. I found some issues in the lower unit and I'm waiting on the parts. I would like to continue testing the motor but don't want to cause any damage. Can you run the motor without the lower unit? I've seen some folks doing it on youtube but I've also seen people Gorilla Glue their hair so I know not to believe everything you see on the web.

Thanks,
Glen
 
Ha...yes...there are plenty of clowns around.
Don't operate with lower unit off as there will be no cooling. Your neighbors will get mad too....very loud. Probably best to try another carb. If I had that carburetor in my hands, however, I could probably figure it out.
 
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I finally got back on my 30 HP Lark and have a question on the high speed nozzle. I tore down my two carburetors and found the high speed nozzles appear to be slightly different. I'm wondering if this is what causes my fuel leaking out of the carburetor. 1 has a single hole (it was stuck and stripped) the other is the replacement but it has two holes at different locations. Can anyone tell me which one is correct? My guess is that it's the single hole one. Are they interchangeable?

1.jpgHighSpeedNozzle1.jpg

Thanks,
Glen
 
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