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1958 35 hp lower end question

airrace48

New member
I've watched all the YouTube videos (multiple times) on re-sealing the lower unit. Pretty straight forward. I agree that the Sierra "spaghetti" cord that comes with
the kit is way to small. McMaster Carr sells great Buta N cord for cheap. Here's my question. The straight slot (kiss of death) screws that hold the skeg are horrible.
They are soft and they are impossible to remove. We've a fantastic shop with all the fun tools and lots of horse sense when it comes to machinery disassembly.
I'm attaching a photo of the problem area. Here's my question. The screw heads are painted the same color as the motor. This 1958 motor was fraudulently sold
to us as a "new" old stock motor, only used twice in 1959 before re-crating. Total lie. That being said it is in fantastic condition. We only paid $1200 for the motor, wiring and original pressure gas tank. My guess is that in 1958 Evinrude DID NOT paint the screw heads individually. Is it possible that Evinrude painted the lower unit after it was assembled? I think not. This might indicate that our motor was painted at a later date. I will say though that if that is the case, they did a fantastic job of hiding the fact that it was re-done. I'm wondering if the paint is contributing to the impossibility of removing the screws. We've used the ol' pound hammer screw removal tool to no effect.
 

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Any pictures of this motor?----Not sure why anyone would pay $1200 for a motor like that.-----I have taken many of those screws out with an impact driver.----As you said you were swindled.
 
<p>Paint on the screw heads is normal. Far as I know OMC painted these motors as a complete unit with the gearcase already bolted on, so the skeg screws got paint same as everything else. I would not read a repaint into it. Dealer touch up on a scratched gearcase happens too, so the paint is not much of a clue either way.</p><p><br></p><p>For getting them out, forget the screwdriver. Hammer type impact driver, and a slotted bit that fills the slot and is ground flat at the tip so it bottoms out instead of riding up the walls. A bit that is too narrow is what rounds those slots. Heat helps as well. Propane on the head until the paint blisters, then hit it while it is still warm. Whatever sealer they used is 60 years hard by now.</p><p><br></p><p>If a slot starts to chew, stop. Drill the head off, drop the skeg, and the stub usually walks out with vise grips once the load is off it. The screws are still available, so there is nothing to save by fighting them.</p><p><br></p><p>Are the slots still square, or already rounded over?</p><p><br></p><p>thanks</p>
 
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