Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1982 4.5hp reverse issue

G

Gregb13

New member
Just picked up a 1982 4.5hp. Runs great, just experiencing an issue with the reverse not working and neutral and forward are both forward gears.

I removed the lower unit, made sure the lever was as in forward and slid the unit back together. Nothing changed.

Any ideas?
 
The gear case us spring loaded into fwd gear in the event of shift linkage failure. That way you can get home.

The shift shaft rotates & operates a cam that pushes the shift mechanism to neutral & further for reverse.

If the shift shaft is pulled up which I believe can only happen if the shift shaft bushing is removed, it will disconnect from cam.

So maybe it was pulled up or you are rotating it the wrong direction prior to attaching the gearcase?
 
Upon further inspection I’ve realized if I hold pressure on the reverse lever it’ll go into reverse.

I’ve also come across this and it has me thinking this may be an issue. Although this is my first time picking at an outboard.
There is like a cam on the lever linkage that has three groves with a spring going to each grove. Almost seems to me the cam needs to be rotated on the shaft so all three groves in the linkage will be used. Currently forward is in the second grove, third grove is neutral.
 
This is the cam I'm talking about in the gearcase. In this picture it is standing on edge. Installed, the splined hole would be up & down. As the shift linkage moves upstairs it translates to a rotating shaft that goes into lower unit & rotates this cam.

In this picture, at about 5:30 position in relation to the hole you see a shallow dish upwards, another at perhaps 4:30 & another not visible in the groove at about 3:30.
These are the points where fwd, neutral & reverse are in that order. There is a spring loaded pin that comes out the front of the prop shaft & rides up to each detent.

I believe you need to remove the gearcase & rotate the shift shaft about 270 degrees in the direction required to begin the climb up the ramp via the gradual side (in other words, about 6:30). I think you are stuck past the ramp & have fallen off the steep side. Once you are in the area of travel from 6:30 clockwise to 2:30 you will default into fwd gear. To be clear, fwd is the shallow part of cam (or even off cam), neutral is partially up cam & rev is full height of cam.
 

Attachments

  • 44434.jpg
    44434.jpg
    23.9 KB · Views: 36
With gearcase removed with careful gentle rotation of the shift shaft & you should feel each detent & prop shaft will turn free in neutral.
I can't remember which way is correct rotation but by moving shift lever on cowling you can determine. If you try to rotate it backwards you will get stuck on the steep side of the cam.
So you will feel fwd then neutral then reverse. If you continue it will fall off the steep side of the cam & you go around again. Stop at 1st detent (fwd). Carefully install lower unit while shift lever is in fwd. If you rough handle the gearcase it may pop out of fwd & you will need to start over.
 
Thanks for your response, I go back to work tomorrow so I’ll dig into it again in my days off.

Still curious, where that spring shown in the picture is, that’s in the forward position. Wouldn’t it make sense if it was in the position below the one currently?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8843.jpeg
    IMG_8843.jpeg
    413.4 KB · Views: 44
Droid said:
With gearcase removed with careful gentle rotation of the shift shaft & you should feel each detent & prop shaft will turn free in neutral.
I can't remember which way is correct rotation but by moving shift lever on cowling you can determine. If you try to rotate it backwards you will get stuck on the steep side of the cam.
So you will feel fwd then neutral then reverse. If you continue it will fall off the steep side of the cam & you go around again. Stop at 1st detent (fwd). Carefully install lower unit while shift lever is in fwd. If you rough handle the gearcase it may pop out of fwd & you will need to start over.
Click to expand...
Appreciate the help!
 
You shouldn't need to get into the unit. 2 nuts & drop it down. Get it synced as described above & reinstall. 15 minutes
Maybe 4 nuts?
 
Remove lower unit.----Just 2 nuts.-----Verify lower unit in neutral.-----Put lever in neutral.----Re-assemble.-----Or both lower unit in forward and lever in forward.---The clutch dog is spring loaded and jumps into forward when you are not looking.------This has baffled many folks over the last 50 years or so,.---That is why previous owner gave up on it.
 
racerone said:
Remove lower unit.----Just 2 nuts.-----Verify lower unit in neutral.-----Put lever in neutral.----Re-assemble.-----Or both lower unit in forward and lever in forward.---The clutch dog is spring loaded and jumps into forward when you are not looking.------This has baffled many folks over the last 50 years or so,.---That is why previous owner gave up on it.
Click to expand...
I’ve done this with both lower unit placed in forward and shift lever in forward.
Same issue.
 
racerone said:
Remove lower unit.----Just 2 nuts.-----Verify lower unit in neutral.-----Put lever in neutral.----Re-assemble.-----Or both lower unit in forward and lever in forward.---The clutch dog is spring loaded and jumps into forward when you are not looking.------This has baffled many folks over the last 50 years or so,.---That is why previous owner gave up on it.
Click to expand...
I’ll try again with both placed in neutral and see where that gets me
 
Droid said:
This is the cam I'm talking about in the gearcase. In this picture it is standing on edge. Installed, the splined hole would be up & down. As the shift linkage moves upstairs it translates to a rotating shaft that goes into lower unit & rotates this cam.

In this picture, at about 5:30 position in relation to the hole you see a shallow dish upwards, another at perhaps 4:30 & another not visible in the groove at about 3:30.
These are the points where fwd, neutral & reverse are in that order. There is a spring loaded pin that comes out the front of the prop shaft & rides up to each detent.

I believe you need to remove the gearcase & rotate the shift shaft about 270 degrees in the direction required to begin the climb up the ramp via the gradual side (in other words, about 6:30). I think you are stuck past the ramp & have fallen off the steep side. Once you are in the area of travel from 6:30 clockwise to 2:30 you will default into fwd gear. To be clear, fwd is the shallow part of cam (or even off cam), neutral is partially up cam & rev is full height of cam.
Click to expand...
Just to confirm, are you saying to remove shift shaft,
Or is this just like I’ve done. Remove lower unit and put shaft into forward as well as gear selector in forward.
 
Put both in FWD & reinstall.
But as I posted above, you will be in FWD for about 270 degrees of shaft totation. You need to be in the FWD detent on that cam in the picture I posted. So you need to carefully feel for that spot as as you rotate the shaft.
 
Ah ok now I’m on the same page as you. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
Once I get off work this evening I’ll try again. I was just turning the shaft until I knew it was in forward and then reinstalled
 
Droid said:
Put both in FWD & reinstall.
But as I posted above, you will be in FWD for about 270 degrees of shaft totation. You need to be in the FWD detent on that cam in the picture I posted. So you need to carefully feel for that spot as as you rotate the shaft.
Click to expand...
You hit the nail on the head. Problem solved. Thank you very much!
 
Droid said:
Good, now go play.
Click to expand...
Can’t play just yet. Another 12hr shift tomorrow then I’m on my 5 days off.

Another question. I’ve noticed my reverse lock isn’t working. I’m assuming the shaft should not slip in and out of the ball in the lock unit as mine is.
 
First course of action. You have a tilt pin in it? Is the tilt selector in troll (reverse lock doesn't work in troll). Is it adjusted correctly to where the reverse hooks are engaged enough to keep it from kicking up in reverse and neutral, but allow it to tilt in forward gear? It's a little finicky and needs TLC lubrication on pivot points. I have 7 of these 1 lunger engines but I have a mint 73' 4 hp that will only tilt up with the engine turned to port to tilt up, something with the little wire connected to the shift actuator . I lost interest in worrying about it. This motor can sit for 3 years and start on one pull so I'm good.
 
Currently there is no tilt pin and it is not in troll. I was just flicking between fwd and neutral seeing if there was any movement in the lock - there was not.
Then I noticed the wire moves in and out of the ball that is located in the lock unit as I move it back and fourth by hand.
 
fitz73222 said:
First course of action. You have a tilt pin in it? Is the tilt selector in troll (reverse lock doesn't work in troll). Is it adjusted correctly to where the reverse hooks are engaged enough to keep it from kicking up in reverse and neutral, but allow it to tilt in forward gear? It's a little finicky and needs TLC lubrication on pivot points. I have 7 of these 1 lunger engines but I have a mint 73' 4 hp that will only tilt up with the engine turned to port to tilt up, something with the little wire connected to the shift actuator . I lost interest in worrying about it. This motor can sit for 3 years and start on one pull so I'm good.
Click to expand...
Currently there is no tilt pin and it is not in troll. I was just flicking between fwd and neutral seeing if there was any movement in the lock - there was not.
Then I noticed the wire moves in and out of the ball that is located in the lock unit as I move it back and fourth by hand.
 
Back
Top