Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1995 60hp Evinrude E60TLEOC no spark

S

SaltyScot

Regular Contributor
I just bought a 70s Glastron that has this motor on it. Compression is 130, 130, 138. It has no spark on any of the the 3 cylinders. The seller said his mechanic says it needs a new power pack. Yeah, I know. What the seller says is usually BS. I thought I would be better off troubleshooting it myself instead of going with their word. So I grabbed my Clymer manual (1991-94 2-300hp). I tested the stop circuit and the key switch. They tested fine. When I got to the Stator test, it said I needed a Peak Reading Voltmeter and Pl-88 adapter for subsequent tests. After reading several similar threads, and hearing many people saying 90-something percent of the time it is the power pack, I decided to just order a new power pack. Well, that wasn't it. When I installed the new PP, it initially fired(ever so briefly, maybe one cylinder of one revolution) and let out a puff of smoke. And that was it. I then acquired a DVA adapter for my multimeter to get the peak readings that the Clymer was asking for. The stator showed 330 volts across A and B. And the stator resistance showed 840 ohms across A and B. So that checked out. I then started testing the timer base. I tested for shorts on each terminal and found none. Then I stopped for the day.

I'm wondering if that puff of smoke when installing the new power pack is telling me that it blew up, possibly the same as the one before it. Is there a way to bench test the PP? Where do I go from here? Thanks.

Stephen
 
I have spare red plug and about 15' of wiring. I just bought a new ignition switch to finish off the other end of it for testing purposes. I tried this cable/switch and it gave the same result. But since it's new, I can't say that it is known to work. Also, the motor is very nice under the hood. No corrosion whatsoever. Tomorrow I'll go though with a wire brush and shine all the battery and ground connections.
 
The resistance from the timer base looks very weird. White-purple is 7.64 Mega ohms. White-blue is 8.20 Mega ohms. White-green is open. I think they're supposed to be 400-500 ohms. Is that correct? Shouldn't that be the problem? Could those #s cause a fried power pack?


I haven't done the battery or starter yet. I'll do that tomorrow. It does crank as fast as any motor I've owned.
 
I'm seeing various different resistance values that the purple/green/blue to white wires are supposed to be. But since they are none of those, I feel somewhat confident that I need a new timer base.

But also, the stator doesn't look right either. Brown to Brown/Yellow gives me about 800 ohms. I believe that should be 450-550 ohms. However, it does show 330V DC with the DVA. Should I replace the stator as well? Or just do the timer base first, and see what that gives me? Also, the Orange to Orange/black shows 400 ohms, slightly below the 450-550 ohm range specified.
 
New Timer Base installed and still no spark.
To recap:

disconnected kill switch
tried it with different ignition switch
tried it with stator yellow charge wires disconnected
tested timer base and found coil wires open - replaced
tested stator and found brown to brown/yellow at 800 ohms. should be 450-550 ohms, but output voltage with DVA is good
all connections and grounds have been polished
battery/starter cranking super fast as though there are no plugs in it

Where do I go from here? Should I try another power pack?
 
I did some more testing since I have a new timer base. The orange to orange/black on the stator is showing 183V. According to CDI troubleshooting guide it should be 45-120V. Is the excessive voltage enough to blow the power pack? Also, the Brown to Brown/yellow was 800 ohms. Should be 450-550 ohms. Are those good enough reasons to replace the stator?
 
Last edited:
After some help from CDI interpreting my #s, it turns out it needs a stator, timer base, and power pack. Too rich for my blood.
 
Back to your 1st post......
When I installed the new PP, it initially fired(ever so briefly, maybe one cylinder of one revolution) and let out a puff of smoke. And that was it.
What smoked, the power pack or the exhaust? I assume power pack.
If you bought an Amazon power pack, you have induced all these problems & wasted a month away.

Stators typically fail as in low or zero voltage. And OMC stators don't typically fail.

Pick-up or timer base are also reliable. How do old & new timers compare when testing?

Also consider your VOM is probably not 100% accurate. Unless it's new & expensive it could be off significantly. Regardless, using the same VOM side by side on 2 items at the same temperature should give similar results if both components are good.
 
Droid said:
Back to your 1st post......
When I installed the new PP, it initially fired(ever so briefly, maybe one cylinder of one revolution) and let out a puff of smoke. And that was it.
What smoked, the power pack or the exhaust? I assume power pack.
If you bought an Amazon power pack, you have induced all these problems & wasted a month away.

Stators typically fail as in low or zero voltage. And OMC stators don't typically fail.

Pick-up or timer base are also reliable. How do old & new timers compare when testing?

Also consider your VOM is probably not 100% accurate. Unless it's new & expensive it could be off significantly. Regardless, using the same VOM side by side on 2 items at the same temperature should give similar results if both components are good.
Click to expand...
The puff of smoke was from brief combustion, not from the pack itself. My voltmeter is a pretty decent one. About $70 from Home Depot. The Timer base and Stator tested bad. Replacing them didn't result in spark. So I basically had to replace the pack again, and I decided against it. I've had no luck with outboards lately. Maybe it's time to try an inboard.
 
A $70 Home Depot unit is not the same as a Fluke.

You didn't tell me how the old vs new components tested with your meter.

I've never heard of Jetunit..... so I'll not comment.
 
Droid said:
A $70 Home Depot unit is not the same as a Fluke.

You didn't tell me how the old vs new components tested with your meter.

I've never heard of Jetunit..... so I'll not comment.
Click to expand...
I tested the timer base old vs new. The old one was showing open resistance for 2 of the 3 coils. The new one tested correctly. I didn't test the new stator.
 
I just sold this motor. I bought it to put on my little Tunnel Hull racer, but someone made me an offer that I couldn't refuse on that. So that left me with no use for this motor. Thanks everyone for all the input.
 
Back
Top