Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1999 Force 50HP Questions

V

Vargrklaw

Member
Hi, all. Just picked up a Smokercraft pontoon yesterday with a '99 Force 50 on it. Have not run it yet due to all the lakes around being frozen (Southern MN), but the motor looks almost brand new. I figured it's been very cared for, could've been NOS in a warehouse somewhere or recently rebuilt. I'm aware that's no way to determine it's condition, just throwing it out there. The main things I'm trying to figure out before the lakes open are what prop will fit it and how to diagnose the trim switch/wiring.

The prop that's on it had very clearly been banged on rocks at some point, it's very chewed up. I cannot find any numbers or anything on it that tell the pitch and diameter. Are these numbers typically hidden somewhere? On the Evinrude I have on a smaller boat, the numbers are right between the blades.

For the trim, it runs going down, but not up. I'm hoping it's just a wire came loose somewhere, but I've never worked on a motor with functional trim. Evinrude has it, but doesn't work, never bothered fixing it. Is there anything I should check first before anything else? I'm good enough with a multimeter to trace power, or lack of.
1000007237.jpg
1000007240.jpg
1000007239.jpg
1000007236.jpg
 
First thing, do a compression and spark test. Compression should be even or very close to each other.
Post the readings.

Look under the prop nut for the size. Or remove it and have it sent out to be redone.
Most marine places have contact with a prop shop, asl at the local marina or boat sales.
Most manufacturers have records of the equipment installed on boats they sell. Get the Vin. # and ask them?

Trim and tilt, first pic: two red wires go to the relays, the relays are hooked to a green(down) and a blue(up) wires.
Swap the green and blue wires and see if the T@T works now. Works? then the contacts are bad or the relay is bad.
Easy testing with your meter.
 
Thanks for the info, I haven't been able to do much since it's still so cold out. I did check the T@T wiring and believe it's a bad relay for going up. One more thing I did check on while I was doing stuff was the prop. When we bought the boat, we knew the prop had damage from hitting something. There's a lot of heavy wear and small pieces missing along the edges, like it was spun against a rock or tree or something.

Decided to check it out more today and realized that with the throttle lever in reverse, prop won't turn in either direction, but in forward, I can freely spin it clockwise, but not counter clockwise. When spinning clockwise, I can hear some kind of clicking noise in the lower unit, so I'm going to assume worst case scenario that the forward gear is shot. Will investigate further next weekend when the weather warms and I can pull it off since I'm putting a new water pump in anyway. Anything else I should check first before dropping the lower?
 
That is the way the forward gear and clutch dog work from day one at the factory.----You will find the same clicking on most big outboards.
 
Ahh, understood! I just looked at the parts diagrams and see the ramped gear teeth on the clutch dog. Thanks for the info, I was NOT looking forward to needing to tear down the lower :) I'm guessing it was done that way as a safety mechanism to prevent damage or something?
 
Vargrklaw said:
Huh, okay....I wouldn't have thought of clicking being normal when it should be in gear? That just seems abnormal to me
Click to expand...
If it's clicking "In Gear" then that's not normal. Some clicking going into gear is. When engaging either gear: the shift needs to be firm and quick, a slow shift can grind the gears as they connect.
 
So, small update today. T&T works, but sporadically, so I'm thinking there's a loose or corroded connection somewhere. If I unplug/replug the relays or seemingly move wiring around, it works in both directions, then will only get up or down until I do it again.

Also motor DOES run, but still haven't put it on water yet or done compression test. Since it's warmer today, I just wanted to see if it would fire up and it did with little effort. Didn't need to raise the idle lever at all, just holding the primer in and cranking made it fire and idle for a few seconds until I shut it off. I know it's bad for the water pump if not on water, but I have a full replacement kit on hand that'll be going in soon. And I know that's no real indication of the motor condition, just my peace of mind knowing it runs :)

Will be doing a compression test soon, probably tomorrow if I have some spare time.
 
"Didn't need to raise the idle lever at all, just holding the primer in and cranking made it fire" The primer on a 99 year only works if repeatedly engaging. Push the key and hold only primes once, the old choke/primer(before new prime system) worked if held in while cranking.
The newer prime gives a small shot of fuel each time the key's pushed in.
The primer(new style) has a small diaphragm that when activated shoots the fuel into the throat of the intake.
 
Jerryjerry05 said:
"Didn't need to raise the idle lever at all, just holding the primer in and cranking made it fire" The primer on a 99 year only works if repeatedly engaging. Push the key and hold only primes once, the old choke/primer(before new prime system) worked if held in while cranking.
The newer prime gives a small shot of fuel each time the key's pushed in.
The primer(new style) has a small diaphragm that when activated shoots the fuel into the throat of the intake.
Click to expand...

Good to know, thanks! I was curious about that
 
Been playing around with the trim and tilt more today, trying to determine what the issues are. I'm thinking there may be a problem with the plug that goes into one or both of the relays or the wires going to the trim motor. If I unplug/replug the relays, it'll run for a while and then stop again, but I can hear each relay click in each direction. I ordered both relays to just replace them. As far as checking the wiring to the trim motor, any thing specific I should look at? Just looks to be regular wire, so not much to look at. I know there's the barrel plugs in line, so maybe those could be the problem
 
The connectors to the relays: spray WD or any cleaner to clean the contacts. Then with a pair of pliers gently squeeze the connectors and try to reinstall, oh yea spray the relays too.
 
Got it working good today, the cleaner seemed to do the trick. Connectors looked good and didn't seem to be open to far, so I didn't mess with that. Just cleaned really well and threw in some dielectric grease as well. Did relays and bullet connectors. List of things to do is definitely getting shorter! Just need to install new water pump, get a new prop, have the starboard pontoon pressure tested & sealed up, and I think I'm going to put in a tell tale as well, or maybe a pressure gauge.

And a tach, this one doesn't have one and I want that. I see the throttle box has an empty plug for something and after some reading, it seems a tach plugs into that and the wire just goes to the gauge?
 
Update time! Installed a 90 degree fitting for a tell tale, going to revise it later, but works for now. Took the boat to the lake since it's all melted now, got the motor in the water and running. Plenty of water coming out the tell tale, good solid stream especially at WOT. Motor sounded good, no issues throttling up and idled good. Need a new fuel line and primer bulb, I think this one's check ball might be bad. Doesn't build much pressure at all and sounds like it's releasing back into the tank.

Next on the shortening list of things to do is a new prop. Are there any props specific to a pontoon, or should I stick with the specs of the current one for now? Should I get a 3 or 4 blade?
 
Stick with what's on there. 3 blade unless your gonna race your toon? :)
The pontoon takes a prop with a smaller pitch.
Most outboards on a regular boat are around a 17/19 pitch and the pontoon could use a 10/11 pitch(something like that).
If the prop needs replacing? take it to a local boat sales or repair and have them send it out to be redone, usually way cheaper.
 
Ours is pretty chewed up on the edges and has a couple decent size chunks gone. Our marine shop in town quoted $90-$120 to repair it, or we could get a Solas for about the same price.

I was considering a 4 blade because I'd read they're better for low speed handling and heavier boats. Maybe I read it wrong?
 
I see the snow in your picture, where are you? Maybe fill out the profile?
It would probably use more fuel.
The 4 blade does make a difference in bigger boats.
Your not gonna get any more speed unless you get a bigger motor.
The 4 blades have been used for a long time now, if it was a better option for your toon it would come as standard equipment.
Contact Solas and ask them about the 3 VS. the 4 blades on a pontoon. They're the experts.
Michigan Propeller will help too.
$90-120 Ridiculous, WOW!!! Try another shop.
 
I live in Owatonna, MN. Top speed isn't a concern for us, we're not pulling skiers or tubes any time soon. It's a pontoon boat that'll be used mainly for fishing and leisure crusing. The Force motor that's on it wasn't the factory motor, it used to have a Johnson or Evinrude at some point. I'll ask Solas and Michigan Prop for their suggestions.
 
Back
Top