Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Alpha Gen 1: First time doing prop seals; is removing the waterpump necessary?

A

ADDvanced

New member
Hey boys,

My prop seals went in my Alpha G1, and tomorrow I'm going to try to remove the retaining ring and pull the bearing carrier to replace the seals. Wish me luck!

My question is, in the manual I have for pulling the bearing carrier, the first step is "remove waterpump" and then the instructions seem easy enough to follow until the job is done.

Why the heck would I remove the waterpump before pulling this stuff?
 
Clymer & Seloc manuals give just enough info to confuse you.

You will need the special spanner wrench, a long reach puller & the proper seal driver is handy. Best to break the spanner nut loose before you remove the gearcase IF you are going to remove it. And again torque to final value after it has been reinstalled.
 
I have both of those tools on hand, but I've been reading about the screw technique of throwing a couple course threaded screws into the seals, then pulling them out with pliers or screwdrivers as levers. I've done this on the main seals of my 911 engine; not sure why I couldn't do the same thing here. Might try that first? If that doesn't work, then pull the carrier.
 
If your pulling the prop shaft carrier, there is a large oring, you will see this.

1. Check surface it contacts and if all corroded, sand with emery paper till smooth.
2. Replace oring with NEW and coat oring with good gasket goo.

Once retaining nut is removed from housing and attempting to pull carrier,
Put puller legs where the most meat is on carrier. Use a prop thrust washer which is about 2 1/2 inch diameter (install on prop shaft at tightest point of puller legs to keep them spread all the way apart for best grip on carrier)

If its been in there a while expect it to be difficult to pull out and possibly the puller could break the aluminum carrier.

Also retorquing the retainer is not easy either, I believe its like 190-210ft/lbs +double check spec)
You may need a second person to hold housing.......just saying...
 
Ruh roh, I don't have the O Ring on hand, that wasn't mentioned. Have a part # handy? I will try to source one just to have in stock.

Thank you so much for the detailed advice, way more specific than the manual!

I was going to try to do this with the gearcase still installed on the boat, since you can then put a gigantic breaker on it and hopefully nothing will move unless the transom is junk lol
 
That's why I said break loose & torque with gearcase still installed on boat.

Those seals are quite strong & depending on the vintage of your drive the outer seal has the stainless outer flange that protects seal from fish line. (Older drives had 2 exactly the same seal installed back to back. Replacement seals will be one standard, 1 fish line cutter type.)

I doubt you will get them out by pulling but it's your choice to try.
 
Image shows typical puller used thats easy to come by. The red circle shows where the thrust washer would go, The smallest gap between jaws. it helps keep them spread apart and engaged to the carrier.

typical carrier puller.jpg
 
The factory manual will also start with the water pump. This is because MerCruiser doesn't recommend just doing part of the job. Too much risk of getting crud in the gears and bearings.
Depending if you have an early or late model will determine if the puller jaws face in or out. Good possibility of damage to the carrier if you get it wrong.
If you need to use the out method, be careful if you're using a generic puller. Some of them have the hook on the jaws too long and will scrape the threads in the gear housing. Might need to modify the jaws by grinding a bit off.
If the carrier retainer is fighting you coming out. Stop. Use heat or drill the carrier nut per the manual. This is a job that can quickly turn a minor repair into complete gear housing total replacement.
Just doing the seals without any disassembly is a valid repair if you have a modified seal driver for reinstalling the seals.
 
Alright, thanks boys! Carrier came out with some heat and tapping once it was under tension, popped out the seals which were trashed, drove in a new one (coated in perfect seal) with a socket and an extension. Reinstallation was simple, used perfect seal on the O ring and the threaded retention ring, I think I'm good to go? I will try to figure out a way to pressure test it tomorrow.
 
ADDvanced said:
Alright, thanks boys! Carrier came out with some heat and tapping once it was under tension, popped out the seals which were trashed, drove in a new one (coated in perfect seal) with a socket and an extension. Reinstallation was simple, used perfect seal on the O ring and the threaded retention ring, I think I'm good to go? I will try to figure out a way to pressure test it tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Bike tire pump, gear oil pump fitting- works great, but don't go higher than 10-15 psi.

If your manual has confusing/incorrect info, buy a used Mercruiser manual on Ebay- it will be less money than a Clymer or Seloc manual.

The retention ring can't move if the Stainless tab ring is in place. If the Stainless ring is deformed, hammer it flat.
 
ADDvanced said:
Alright, thanks boys! Carrier came out with some heat and tapping once it was under tension, popped out the seals which were trashed, drove in a new one (coated in perfect seal) with a socket and an extension. Reinstallation was simple, used perfect seal on the O ring and the threaded retention ring, I think I'm good to go? I will try to figure out a way to pressure test it tomorrow.
Click to expand...
I built one out of an old gear lube pump took the fitting off the hose and then got a piece like this made for pressure testing plumbing/ gas lines

 
Back
Top