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Bf-225 timing belt adjustment and change

J

Jefferyes

New member
Lurked here for ten years at least great forum

I have a 2003 bf-225 great motor
Finally screwed up the courage to change the belt.
I will point out things I did not figure out even with the shop manual
First adjusting the belt tension is dead easy. Pull plugs and inlet silencer set engine to TDC. Note crank pulley mark ensures TDC on intake stroke. Loosen tension pulley bolt. Watch tensioner move. Torque tension pulley bolt. Done.
If tensioner doesn’t move it is bottomed out. You need a new belt.
To change belt pull throttle body and pulley covers
Hard part break crank pulley bolt loose. You need the Honda tool. Less than 100 bucks Amazon
You also need to apply 500 ftlbs torque this means a three foot 3/4 drive.
Pop it off
Thread new belt. All slack must be at the tensioner pully
Observe tensioner pulley take up slack, torque it down. Rotate clockwise check for clean smooth and operation.
You are done.

Again great forum thx
 
Hi,
I haven't read the manual about doing the timing belt as I've never worked on the 225 Honda.

I find it odd though that they would have you reference TDC at the beginning of the intake stroke. Usually it's directed that TDC is found at the end of the compression/beginning of the power stroke.

I suppose it could be a geometric thing for locating timing marks but I've never heard of that before.
 
What exactly are you saying needs to be torqued to 500 lb.ft.?
I see that the flywheel bolt is torqued to 87 lb.ft. but can find nothing that is listed much higher than that. Was that a typo maybe.
 
No to break the crank bolt free required 500 ftlbs
3 ft 3/4 drive torque wrench. And a 1/2 drive breaker bar on the Honda tool. Breaker bar rated at 500 ftlbs. And it was near its limit
 
One additional step should be to check the tensioners and idler pulleys for smooth, true operation - no grinding, binding, or wobble. Those parts are more subject to failure than is the belt itself.
 
Jefferyes said:
Lurked here for ten years at least great forum

I have a 2003 bf-225 great motor
Finally screwed up the courage to change the belt.
I will point out things I did not figure out even with the shop manual
First adjusting the belt tension is dead easy. Pull plugs and inlet silencer set engine to TDC. Note crank pulley mark ensures TDC on intake stroke. Loosen tension pulley bolt. Watch tensioner move. Torque tension pulley bolt. Done.
If tensioner doesn’t move it is bottomed out. You need a new belt.
To change belt pull throttle body and pulley covers
Hard part break crank pulley bolt loose. You need the Honda tool. Less than 100 bucks Amazon
You also need to apply 500 ftlbs torque this means a three foot 3/4 drive.
Pop it off
Thread new belt. All slack must be at the tensioner pully
Observe tensioner pulley take up slack, torque it down. Rotate clockwise check for clean smooth and operation.
You are done.

Again great forum thx
Click to expand...
How can you tell if TDC is intake stroke vs compression stroke?. My cam pulley mark lines up with TDC cam 1 and TDC cam 5
 
I was wondering if 22cchonda200 was asking a question about the cam pulley?

The manual states that both the left AND right pulleys should be on #1 indicator with the crankshaft pulley at TDC while installing the timing belt. Is that correct?

He says (I think) that one cam is on #1 but the other cam is on #5. He doesn't specify right or left.

I'm asking, not telling, since I don't know the answer.
 
jgmo said:
I was wondering if 22cchonda200 was asking a question about the cam pulley?

The manual states that both the left AND right pulleys should be on #1 indicator with the crankshaft pulley at TDC while installing the timing belt. Is that correct?

He says (I think) that one cam is on #1 but the other cam is on #5. He doesn't specify right or left.

I'm asking, not telling, since I don't know the answer.
Click to expand...
Sorry for the confusion. Both cams are in sync. Both cams are at at 1 mark when crank pulley is at TDC mark and both cams goes to 5 mark when I crank the crank pulley one more revolution. Cam to crank revolution is 1:2 ratio.

Also can you confirm that I did my timing belt correctly?

I changed the belt and the cam shifted alittle so I rotated that one clockwise until it’s at #1 again(hopefully not bending a valve). Installed the belt with both cams at #1 and crank pulley marks lining up. Then I checked valve clearance on all cams(they were in spec). Started it and idles great. Does that mean timing is good or do I need to take it for a test run to confirm timing is correct and I didn’t mess up the timing or a valve?

Besides cam shifting alittle the timing belt and pulley job was easy and the crank pulley didn’t need to be taken off
 
Again, I have never worked on a V6 Honda outboard so just giving my opinion...
...and it goes something like this:

I believe that, from what you say, that you're done and the belt replacement went well.

It's always a good practice when a belt or chain is.R&R'd, to finish up by rotating the engine several times and check that the timing marks stay properly aligned. You didn't say that you did that but you did catch the timing "wandering" a bit and took corrective action. Goodonya for that!
I also say kudos to you for checking valve clearances. Most people don't bother to do that and it's a bad move.

The fact that your engine fires right up and idles properly tells me that there's no damaged valves. If a valve were damaged it's highly likely the idle would not be smooth and there could be a consistent misfire.

With that said, taking it for a shakedown run after doing this work would definitely confirm that all went well and will prevent scheduling your next outing with friends/family on board only to be unpleasantly surprised and having the day end early.

Thank you for updating and clarifying your previous post.

Happy boating!
 
jgmo said:
Again, I have never worked on a V6 Honda outboard so just giving my opinion...
...and it goes something like this:

I believe that, from what you say, that you're done and the belt replacement went well.

It's always a good practice when a belt or chain is.R&R'd, to finish up by rotating the engine several times and check that the timing marks stay properly aligned. You didn't say that you did that but you did catch the timing "wandering" a bit and took corrective action. Goodonya for that!
I also say kudos to you for checking valve clearances. Most people don't bother to do that and it's a bad move.

The fact that your engine fires right up and idles properly tells me that there's no damaged valves. If a valve were damaged it's highly likely the idle would not be smooth and there could be a consistent misfire.

With that said, taking it for a shakedown run after doing this work would definitely confirm that all went well and will prevent scheduling your next outing with friends/family on board only to be unpleasantly surprised and having the day end early.

Thank you for updating and clarifying your previous post.

Happy boating!
Click to expand...
Sounds good. You made me feel a lot better now! Thank you brotha!! Yes for sure I need to find some time and take it out soon! Safe and happy boating to you as well! =)
 
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