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Can't adjust shift cables in both forward and backward on a pre alpha drive

kghost said:
5.8 cm = ~ 3 inches so that is ok

Because you changed the short cable I will consider that to be ok also.

How you measured it is incorrect.

When in gear with prop held, as you pull or push and as soon as resistance is felt, you make a mark. The measure between the marks.

That should be between 1/2 to 9/16" ( 12.7mm - 14.3mm) This is the acceptable error/slop.


Just to be clear, and of course I am not touching or seeing this first hand.

If the bronze part is twisted 1mm or more (and you would not be able to see this clearly) you cannot adjust the cable system to properly engage in both directions.

Do this test, Test only!!

Adjust the short cable to 5 7/8" (149.3 mm)

See if this works.

If this works, the the issue (s) are with the bronze part or the shift spool/shift crank. (shift crank is the large U shaped part that moves the shift spool in the lower unit.

I have seen older shift cranks that simply have too much movement within the spool some due to wear either on the part itself or the spool.


I am still focusing on the bronze part.
Click to expand...

I pushed the cable in, made sure it was in gear and made a mark on the point where the plastic end meets the metal thread. Then while pressure remained on the prop I lightly pulled it outwards until resistance and made another mark. This distance is 1.8cm while testing for forward and 1.5cm for backward.
 
As cable is new it is not important but i describe it above.

You made mark at wrong point.
After it is in forward gear, with person holding prop in gear you pull lightly until resistance is felt, then make mark 1.

Pull cable for reverse, spin prop clockwise, person holds prop.
Push cable lighty until resistance is felt the make mark 2.

Measure between marks.


Anyway....
 
kghost said:
As cable is new it is not important but i describe it above.

You made mark at wrong point.
After it is in forward gear, with person holding prop in gear you pull lightly until resistance is felt, then make mark 1.

Pull cable for reverse, spin prop clockwise, person holds prop.
Push cable lighty until resistance is felt the make mark 2.

Measure between marks.


Anyway....
Click to expand...

Hmm ok, I was following this:

2. Check for excessive play in drive unit shift systemas follows:a. Place drive unit into gear by pushing in ondrive unit shift cable, while simultaneously rotating propeller shaft counterclockwise untilshaft stops, to ensure full clutch engagement.b. Place a mark on shift cable threaded tubeagainst edge of end guide. While maintaining pressure on propellershaft in a counterclockwise direction (to keepclutch locked with gear), lightly pull out onshift cable end guide and place another markon threaded tube.d. Measure distance between both marks. Distance should be 9/16 in. (14 mm) or less. If play is 9/16 in. (14 mm) or less: No furtherattention to drive unit is needed. Proceed withadjustments.If play is more than 9/16 in. (14 mm): Drive unitmust be removed to further isolate excessive play.
Click to expand...
 
I believe somewhere in all that text it is explained...

Doing the best i can from my phone......

Some things are more easily said then typed...
I am trying...
 
kghost said:
I believe somewhere in all that text it is explained...

Doing the best i can from my phone......

Some things are more easily said then typed...
I am trying...
Click to expand...

It's actually what I did and it doesn't involve changing the gear to backwards
 
By the way, I just pulled the drive again. And looked at the U-shaped rod arm. It has a little bit of play between the arm and the u-shaped rod. It's very minimal but I don't know... Ill try and make a video!
 
basically you are measuring the slop in the short shift cable.
This is the way I was instructed to do it when trained and it is also in the manual.

again new cable no issue!!

I have had this issue you are having several times. When everything appears to be within specification there can only be a couple possible answers.

The one I have found to be the answer is the bronze shift part.


Lets kind of start over.

With new cable installed, All set up measurements have been done what is the symptom?

No reverse? or no forward?

If no reverse have you tried to adjust the hex stud in the shift bracket that the short cable mounts to? Also did you adjust that hex stud to the middle of the slot when doing initial set up adjustments?
 
Another question,

The " shift part with the wheel"

Is that tight to the vertical shaft with NO slop ??

If that is loose in anyway that is not correct?
You said the wheel is ok.
It spins but with no side to side slop?

Can you get a pic of thhe wheel?

I have seen them worn or partially broken like a portion (ring of material) had been removed..... hard to describe...
 
If the U shaped part has slop and the slop is excessive then the bronze part is more than likely worn.

Also the U can get bent if the drive was not in forward gear when it was attempted to be removed.

Some people will try to pry the drive away from gimbal housing

This can ben out the U and/or scrape away part of the bronze part square edge..if the edge is not square and severely rounded it will not shift correctly.
 
kghost said:
Another question,

The " shift part with the wheel"

Is that tight to the vertical shaft with NO slop ??

If that is loose in anyway that is not correct?
You said the wheel is ok.
It spins but with no side to side slop?

Can you get a pic of thhe wheel?

I have seen them worn or partially broken like a portion (ring of material) had been removed..... hard to describe...
Click to expand...

It is veeery minimal
 
Not good!

ZERO slop between the two parts!! They should move as One part!!

See pic for screw type,
Threads are 10-32
Material is stainless steel
Difficult to drill out if you cannot get it out as is................but can be done, carefully!!

Shift arm pin.jpg
 
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My advice at this stage is to,

1. Replace bronze piece, I did not like all the slop/play in your earlier video.

2. Remove and replace that screw-pin at wheel part if you can.

If you cannot remove the pin then a new vertical shaft and wheel assembly and screw/pin will need to be replaced as you may have to CUT the shaft to remove.

This is rare but not uncommon.
 
Royall said:
Is that the screw coming in from the side?
Click to expand...

Yes, a slotted screw. Very difficult to remove after being in there for years and more difficult when someone else has messed it up.

When I have replaced them I grease them up good so if they have to be removed it will come out. They are not greased normally and the dissimilar metals between the wheel part and the screw cause a corrosion bond absent the grease.

If you can get it out, make sure you SQEEZE the slotted vertical shaft where the pin goes thru. That will also help in a tight fit. If that hole/slot in the shaft is damaged beyond use then the shaft will need to be replaced.
 
Last edited:
If you have a impact type screw driver that is what may be needed to get that screw loose.

I have broken many slotted screw tips when trying to remove this screw!!!!!!

abc.jpg
 
Last edited:
kghost said:
If you have a impact type screw driver that is what may be needed to get that screw loose.

I have broken many slotted screw tips when trying to remove this screw!!!!!!

View attachment 21236
Click to expand...

Believe it or not but the screw was loose. As in fully loose...

I made a new video and some pictures :)


Also this is a problem. The below picture is taken when I had the drive on and in forward gear. I could push the cable even further in and this is what happens. The 6 inches is not even possible to adjust to...
6inchproblem.jpg

Here are some extra photos

tight.jpg
loose.jpg
screw.jpg
notbend.jpg
1.jpg
 
Questions,

1. The cable end that wheel fits into. Why does it look used. You said you replaced the cable? The cable kits give you a NEW one.

2. On the bracket side of the shift cable, the plastic end,
Did you feed the inner cable core all the way thru and into the small round hole until it hit the top of hole and then tightened the pinch screws?

3. REPLACE THAT PART WITH THE WHEEL. It is very worn.

4. Replace the Bronze part. Just because I said so.

5. Buy new wheel to shaft screw so it is new!

6. Lets focus on 2. And see where that leads.....
Its clear this observation was missed earlier....

What ever is wrong there is not normal.
Explain what you used as a cable replacement????

Something isnt adding up
 
kghost said:
Questions,

1. The cable end that wheel fits into. Why does it look used. You said you replaced the cable? The cable kits give you a NEW one.

2. On the bracket side of the shift cable, the plastic end,
Did you feed the inner cable core all the way thru and into the small round hole until it hit the top of hole and then tightened the pinch screws?

3. REPLACE THAT PART WITH THE WHEEL. It is very worn.

4. Replace the Bronze part. Just because I said so.

5. Buy new wheel to shaft screw so it is new!

6. Lets focus on 2. And see where that leads.....
Its clear this observation was missed earlier....

What ever is wrong there is not normal.
Explain what you used as a cable replacement????

Something isnt adding up
Click to expand...

1. It is new but I tried to unscrew the white plastic with some pliers which wasnt possible on this cable. My old cable was simply screwed in.
2. Yes 100%
3. Ill have a look if I can order those parts over here.
 
I was looking thru the manual and I found this. see image.

It gives a dimension of 1 3/8 inches of inner cable (core) sticking out of steel threaded tube when in full forward gear (outdrive attached).

Back in those days they had cut to length cables. Today they are all fixed length.

So with plastic cable end removed and steel threaded tube installed the amount of cable core exposed should be 1 3/8. If it is not we will need to see what is causing this.
























old shift cable specs.jpg
 

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I got both forward and backward gear working again!

The shifting arm at the upper (U-shaped) shifting rod was loose because the flat screw that holds the arm was not tightened. This gave the system too much slop. Now it is still a close call as I was forced to move the adjustable stud on the shifting bracket all the way up to make it work. I will order a new replacement arm (and roller) just to be sure and maybe counter some extra slop!

Thank you so much for all the help @kghost

Ill keep you guys updated!
 
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