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Crusader/Barr exhaust pieces

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srfdude

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After opening the boxes with the various pretty cast iron pieces, I noticed a sheet with the ominous warning that "All gasket surfaces must be filed prior to installation. These surfaces need to be free of all nicks, burrs, and paint. This is required for ALL manifolds, elbows and risers". Holy crap. Not sure I can file these surfaces plane enough, do I need to take these pieces to a machine shop???
 
On mine, dripping paint and the odd burr were taken off with emery paper....The gaskets are what's in between the parts so that there is no leakage and I would think the manufacturer just wants to make sure that they mating surfaces are relatively smooth......but not down to the last molecule.;)

The manufacturer don't want the buyers to come back and say the leakage was caused by their companies inability to produce a good flat surface.
 
I just use a sharp wood chisel to quickly scrap off all the paint and reveal the factory machined surface. Usually it does not require any other work to flatten. I use the same chisel to get the old head gasket bits off the block. No longer sharp enough for wood but is seems to hold up well for these purposes.

The new black shiny gaskets are said to not need sealant. So far, so good on that one. You will find other opinions out there.
 
srfdude said:
Thanks, Don. Manual says to use "perfect seal" between most joints, this is old technology. Is there a newer alternative?
Click to expand...


I have yet to do what you are doing but I have used this product for my thermostat housings on both engines and not a leak anywhere and the temp does get to 160+F.

Maybe someone can advise if this stuff is only good for "non'vertical/angled" parts or not

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On my Barr replacement pieces, I removed the manufacturer's paint from the machined surfaces, wearing rubber gloves, with a rag and solvent. I think I used acetone, but it might have been lacquer thinner. when assembling, I used Permatex #3 on the gaskets that came with the hardware, and they have been holding up fine for the past two years.
 
After paint removal, run a file across the face of the manifold and elbow. A couple passes will tell you if the mating surfaces are flat or not. I too use the Permatex Aviation #3. Usually the surfaces are pretty good, but, I've seen defects that I was glad I had taken a file to. Prep is everything.
Also hit the exhaust port mating surfaces .
 
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Perfect Seal is the quicksilver version of GM's GP gasket compound which is functionally equivalent to Permatex #3. I've never seen any restrictions on the parts it is used on installation angles....

The need for sealer is driven by the gaskets used....old plain gaskets usually benefit from some #3; newer coated gaskets usually don't need any sealer.....

Either way, the surfaces to be sealed need to be 'flat & parallel' for the gasket to work.....
 
srfdude said:
After opening the boxes with the various pretty cast iron pieces, I noticed a sheet with the ominous warning that "All gasket surfaces must be filed prior to installation. These surfaces need to be free of all nicks, burrs, and paint. This is required for ALL manifolds, elbows and risers". Holy crap. Not sure I can file these surfaces plane enough, do I need to take these pieces to a machine shop???
Click to expand...

I think that the ominous warming is a form of disclaimer for the DIY'rs out there.
Nonetheless, if you do see any nicks from the shipping, it would be best to file them flat and smooth.

On some occasions, used manifold surfaces can be cleaned up via a Surface Sanding machine by a good machine shop tech.


makomark said:
Perfect Seal is the quicksilver version of GM's GP gasket compound which is functionally equivalent to Permatex #3. I've never seen any restrictions on the parts it is used on installation angles....

The need for sealer is driven by the gaskets used....old plain gaskets usually benefit from some #3; newer coated gaskets usually don't need any sealer.....

Either way, the surfaces to be sealed need to be 'flat & parallel' for the gasket to work.....
Click to expand...

Mark is spot on! Take heed! :D


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