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1976 Ford 302 Lower Re-build

the water separator should be on the suction side of the fuel pump...so use the 'extra' outlet plug on the filter head.
 
So, there are two extra plugs, one is an in and the other is an out. The in is an alternative from the fuel tank. The out is an alternative that could go to the fuel pump.
 
pretty much...the vacuum measurement to assess the supply (to the pump) condition is best measured right in front of the pump and the unused pipe plug on the fuel filter is the easiest point to access. I've see a few diesel installations (high end) were they used a differential gauge across the filter to determine when it had accumulated enough crud to warrant replacement....
 
I got the data on the vacuum side of the fuel pump. My faulty gauge zeros out to about +4 to 4 1/2 in/hg, and after a little throttle it went up to and stayed at about 7, so the difference is 2 1/2 to 3. That may not be so good, but the worst was the volume test, which seemed to be about half of half it needed, so my conclusion is to order a new fuel pump. Agreed?
 
I usually define under load as in-gear moving through the water. It was out of gear in my back yard with the hose hooked up to the outdrive, the engine started and mostly idling. revving it, it stayed about the same.
 
So, I am not aware of all the circumstances and consequences concerning this data. Do you agree I should order a new fuel pump, or is there something else I should pursue? Or both? If there is any question about the pump, I will just order another. If you think there is some blockage in the line, I could check it out. I found no marine fuel pumps that state the psi or size of fittings. I found an Edelbrock performance that said it is 6 psi and has 3/8 NPT fittings, but it is not marine. I found no marine Edelbrock fuel pumps. Any ideas where to look? Here is a link to the one I was looking at.
 
I thought you put a new fuel pump on not too long ago??

Did you have the outboard tank hooked up before?? Honestly, I cant remember - been a long day here... I'd be tempted to do that first...

If yu did put on a new fuel pump, I would suspect you are still within the warranty period, assuming the tank/pickup tube has no restriction...I am assuming all of the new 38" ID line you ran has no issues...

Not sure about the options for a ford small block marine fuel pump...will have to visit the library for that one...I would think is there aren't other options, Sierra would still offer one..
 
I have had two new fuel pumps in the last 20 hours of run time. I still have the previous one. Warrantees aren't worth the time. That is why I would like to find a performance one with 3/8 NPT fittings and 6 psi. It can be the newer style with the clear tube instead of the glass cup kind, which increases the options, as the 4-barrel has a fitting for the tube.
I bought the outboard tank and hooked it up - not sure if we eliminated any possibilities at the time. The problem now is that the engine operates normally up to about 3000 rpm under load, so I can't troubleshoot with it in my back yard. I would have to set it up for another trip to the ocean. We are just looking at between the fuel filter and the tank, which doesn't involve a lot. There is my 3/8" bulb pump, new marine grade 3/8" fuel line going to the new oversized 3/8" anti-siphon valve, a single 3/8"NPT L- fitting that goes to the tank's 3/8" SS fuel pick-up, the SS tank, itself, the vent line and the new vent. I can take the line apart behind the anti-siphon valve and blow it out and see if anything is plugging it and the condition of the valve, the tank and the vent line. The fuel seems to easily come from the tank with my bulb pump.
I could re-do the volume test with the outboard tank, once the engine is back together, as today I got the intake manifold re-installed and some of the other components back together. Have to finish it up tomorrow, get it running and then explore the fuel supply.
 
i believe you can assess the condition of the current fuel pump using the outboard tank for a temporary testing setup.

I would expect that configuration to have the minimum pressure drop, mostly due to positioning.

You don't have to go to the ocean as long as the boat ramp isnt busy...leaving it strapped on the trailer is very adequate for the job...
 
I got my engine back together, but had to let some gasket sealer harden, so didn't get a chance to do the fuel test. I think the volume test, which was the worst, will be most conclusive with the outboard tank. If the volume is bad with both, I get a new pump.
 
Well, we are back to square one - my engine won't start after the intake manifold re-install. I had taken off the carb, the distributer, the thermostat housing, and of course the intake manifold, re-sealed it and put all back together. There is a definite hitch when it is turning over, like a crossed plug wire. Just in turning over it will cough through the carburetor - I took off the spark arrestor and saw a plume of mist. I checked the firing order and ensured the plug wires are going to the right cylinder, and all was okay. I set the distributer right on the same line that I drew before taking it out, so the timing should be very close.
The engine didn't hit once, like no ignition, so I checked the voltage to the coil and got 12+ volts. I took out #1 spark plug, it was wet but produced a spark.
It has fuel and I took off the fuel hose at the carburetor and there was fuel in it. I turned over the engine and fuel came out.
I opened up the tank by taking the sender out and it looks very clean. I couldn't see the feeder tube as a baffle is in the way.
Maybe it is flooded, but there is still that hitch, which almost stops the alternator when turning over. I'll try it again tomorrow.
I should be able to figure this one out, but for now it has me stumped.
 
I figured I just flooded the hell out of it from pumping the bulb pump 19 times, and that after over a week, it should just start right up. It still didn't start and never had one hit. I tried starter fluid once, but it just packed up more with no hit, but I do have spark at the plugs. Figuring that it was still so badly flooded that it would affect the port side more, since it is on the lower level of the intake manifold, I started taking the plugs out starting with the #8 back plug, and they were all very black, and #7 was wet. I would turn it over while the plugs were out. I replaced the plugs with the standard AC Delco plug, thinking the wider gap of the Iridium plugs isn't helping in a flooded situation. When I got to the #5 plug, the starter wouldn't work. The assist solenoid would click when I activated it and would click again when I let up on it, but it soon won't turn over at all. The batteries are good, still showing 13.2 volts and did a load test with a load tester and they are in the green. The cables are all fairly new custom marine 0 gauge and look clean. I didn't run it over 20 seconds between several minutes of cool-down.
It looks like I need a new starter. The Arco 70200 PMGR starter has been really good and was a vast improvement over the old-style ones. It would even crank at 11 volts! But not now! It has been just over a year since I put it in and was my 4th starter. There used to be auto electric shops around that could rebuild starters, but the ones I used to use are not any around anymore - I will pull it and see if I can find a shop that does, tomorrow.
Still stumped on why it doesn't start. It does show gas at the carb venturis.
 
I take it that you concur with my findings. I am not a newbie anymore! I graduated to a regular contributor. Let's see if I can get this thing to RUN!
 
I guess your squeeze on the bulb put out more psi than the mechanical pump & what the floats could leverage on the needle/seat. So fuel just kept going somewhere.

Did you leave all 8 plugs out so cylinders could evaporate?

Did you try to jumper the assist (slave) solenoid? Just because its clicking doesn't mean the contacts are good & passing enough juice.
If you have enough room, jumper the 2 big terminals with a jumper cable.
 
I used a remote starter switch between the two big solenoid terminals.
I didn't leave the cylinders open, thinking just turning it over with no plug would push most moisture out, but that may be a good idea. I haven't gotten to the cylinder that is causing the "hitch" that I mentioned in my previous post, it still has that hitch from one cylinder that seems to slow down the cranking. I think when I find it, it will be handled.
Yes, the squeeze of the bulb exceeds the 6.5 psi, which makes this carb flood. I just didn't perceive the resistance like I did with the previous carb, so just kept pumping.
 
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Remote starter swifch is just like 14ga wire. Try a real jumper cable.

Also, sniff your oil & see if it smells like gas.
 
Looking at it closer, the wiring looked pretty rusty around the starter, so I spent the morning cleaning that up and still no budge, so spent a few hours getting the set-up right so that I could finally get the two bolts off holding the starter on. Then I took it to an auto electric place and the guy re-built starters for 35 years and said he didn't do it anymore - that it is not worth it, that it would never be as good as a new one, the way the new ones are built. He asked how much a new one cost, and I told him I found one on Amazon for $155. He said If he did re-build, it that he would have to charge $120, and he couldn't change-out the rusted parts, so just get the new one. So, I ordered a new Arco 70200 PMGR marine starter from Amazon, my fifth starter. He did suggest putting silicon over everything that is rusted and the seems to prevent moisture damage.
I think I will just take out the rest of the sparkplugs to let it air out.
 
In my 46 years of owning many boats I've never had a bad starter. A few of the OMC black saddle clamp mounted can type solenoids your boat uses (both tilt & starter circuits), I think 1 GM starter mounted solenoid & a few MerCruiser slave solenoids. All failed solenoids clicked but no longer passed enough current to operate the circuit.

It helps of course that I'm in fresh water, boats are kept dry & indoors. And now I suppose I'll get stranded tomorrow?

I've installed many Arco starters & trim pumps for people with no issues.
 
Wow, and I have had 4 bad starters in the last few years of mainly trying to get my boat to run. With the PMGR starters, very little amps are run through the assist solenoid, as the main 0-gauge line is routed to the solenoid attached to the starter. The assist solenoid just has a #10 wire on the other large terminal going to trip the starter solenoid on the starter when activated. I have been through at least six solenoids, which used to be the starter solenoid with the conventional starters. I had a lot of slow crank with the conventional starters. The PMGR starter solved that.
Here is my set-up:
302 Wiring schematic as-is.jpg
 
I have gotten some the last 2 times out. I think I have it handled now. It is a partial explanation with the saltwater. And for my tilt motor. I have two bilge pumps; one goes on automatically and the other is switch activated, so it doesn't get too full. It gets some water in it in the rainy season, too.
 
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I will have to protect it better this winter. I have a canvas cover that came with it that I cut into so that the solar shade that I built isn't covered, so It always has full charge. I may have to get a bigger one that covers everything, or some additional tarps. Winter is still fishing season in Los Angeles - you just don't have the pelagics.

Boat cutout logo.jpg
 
Since I had time, I went ahead and changed out the new fuel pump, it is a Carter M6966. I was going to test the old pump again and compare it to the outboard portable fuel tank, but I still have visions of going fishing this summer, so sorry, Mark. I will test the new one once I get the new starter and once it is running, as predicted. I also took out all the spark plugs so the cylinders can air out, assuming it was hopelessly flooded. I will replace them with the standard plugs, AC Delco MR43T gapped at .030.
My bulb pump is starting to show cracks in the rubber. It was a good idea, but not much longevity. I will just put a 3/8-inch ball valve there.
 
not sure the MR43T plugs are the best choice for your Ford....and don't have any suggests due to the mods made...
 
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