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Engine warning beeper not working

Roadking57

Contributing Member
1988 Regal Sebring 19ft VBR 4.3L LX, Alpha One Gen I

Okay I found the beeper assy. Its not working with Key on and Tan/Blue stripe wire grounded to the engine.
Are both of the sensors tied to the same wire? I only have temp and low oil press. No oil tank for lower unit.
I had to remove the engine to have the transom replaced. Its been a year ago and I am just now putting the puzzle back together.

I have not had engine running since re-install, But the engine temp gauge was working before. It will peg when grounded now.

Any insights would be welcome.
Thanks in advance!
RK
 
You have a oil and temp switches which are connected to the Tan/Blue wire. Grounding it should sound the alarm with key ON. Check to see if the beeper has 12V applied to other lead when key is ON

You also should have a oil pressure (light blue) and temp sensors (Tan). These wires go to your gauges
 
The low oil pressure alarm should have a time delay so it doesn’t start screaming during normal engine start.
 
Merc was pretty stupid with the alarm stuff early on. Who would have thought that with the key in the run/on position the alram should SCREAM until you started the engine or turned the key off.


WTF...duh
 
Make sure you get +12VDC to the other side of the buzzer with the key on...

Also, some instrument harnesses have a bullet connector on the dash side of the TAN/BLU wire.

Only the Oil Pressure switch gets tested at startup...if the TAN/BLU wire has continutiy from the switch to the buzzer and the buzzer has +12VDC with the key on, that is all that left...

Personally, I always took comfort knowing that the oil pressure switch was functioning at every startup...
 
My 1995 Rinker did not have time delay but my 1994 Formula did. But as Grand Dad always said, first liar doesn't stand a chance
 
Here are pages from the 1988 manual. It appears temp has a time delay as well. I never overtemped, so I never was aware. But I would periodically test the horn as specified turning key on & waiting.
The time delay is built into the module.
Apparently non OEM kits didn't use a time delay.
 

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Thank you very very much for the photos of the manual !!

The only wiring diagrams I have been able to find are in back of owners manual (online).

I will check out the buzzer with jumpers this afternoon after I'm home from work! (7/15/25)
 
I didn't have a chance to check it yesterday. Life got in the way again. Had to go retrieve truck back from dealership they finished a recall repair to the tailgate button. Tailgate latches never needed a recall. New technology is not always better.
 
Okay
Jumpered 12v to buzzer and it works. Key ON, purple wire to relay getting power from ign switch. No joy. Slid relay out of holder and gently tapped and still no joy. It should beep after 7-12 second delay AFTER turning key off back to ON. Correct? For initial switch on test?
Looking at the kit they sell here. Comes with buzzer and new sensors. I will search down to see if I can find a replacement relay first. I think I can but it wont be a round one.
 
I removed the relay by using a soldering gun so the connections were good. I want to test it to make sure its bad before buying parts.
I've read where this relay has a 30 second delay. So with a ground to where the short purple wire was and 12v to where the other longer purple wire was connected to the ignition switch, 30 seconds later I should have 12v to where the red wire was attached.
Sound about right?
 
I would say YES, provided there is continuity between the TAN/BLUE and short PUR wires connected to the horn.

I'd also verify the horn works while it is isolated from the relay.
 
They are designed to get your attention...

My experience is based mostly on inboard fishing offshore... I prefer no delay as it tests out the buzzer and the oil pressure switch at every startup...I also think adding an extra 15-30 seconds of delay to the notification when you loose oil pressure (or overheat) isn't going to do anything but make things worse. I have had more than one oil pressure switch fail over the years so the startup test has been of benefit to me...I realize different applications may desire a different approach.
 
Yes, and I agree. For now I am attempting to learn about what I currently have. I have been looking at the "Kit" they sell here BC purchasing a replacement relay is nearly as much as the kit ($25 more + shipping). The benefit of the kit is that it comes with new sensors which would be a good thing BC I think the ones that are installed look original (37yrs old). A question I have is I think the kit does not have the delay. Which would suit me just fine anyway.

Thank you for the response !
RK
 
Until you specify who's kit you are looking at, its hard to say.

you are referring to 'new' switches (vs sensors)...
 
I'm referring to the one sold on this website P/N MP41400 Warning Kit, and Yes new "Switches"

Accessories, Engine, Temperature & Pressure/ Alarms/ Switches
 
Has little strip bars on each arm that touch. Ironically those were not rusted. I wanted to try and clean where the wire touches the through rivet.
I bumped the tiny wire and it separated from the rivet. No saving this one. The heating coil looked burnt but it may have just been that way from operating. It was cool to see anyway. The top had black sealant like it was dipped to try and keep moisture out. Lasted long enough I reckon.
 
I ordered the "kit". Since I was waiting I pulled the boat out of the shop and got her started and running on the hose. Man she still starts right up and sounds good. The oil pressure and temp gauges work. However; the fuel gauge does not. Also the dad gum up trim switch is not working.
Glad I tested all this in the driveway. Anyway whats a good test for the sending unit? I've had it out to siphon fuel out. Its the type that has a direct read gauge on the top of sender. I was thinking that was a backup. Its also very short float. I have no idea the gallon size of this boat. 1988 Regal Seabring VBR 4.3LX. No owners manual. Saw sending units with gauge. Thought might as well replace it all.

Thoughts?
Thank you
RK
 
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